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Materials & Ingredients: What Everything Is Actually Made Of

This is the reference page: what the things we sell are actually made of, and what that means in practice. If you’re specifically trying to work out whether a toy is body-safe, start with our body-safe materials guide — this page covers the wider ground, including lube ingredients and lingerie fabrics.

Toy materials, in one paragraph

Silicone, glass, borosilicate, stainless steel and ceramic are non-porous: nothing soaks in, they clean properly, and they last. TPE and TPR sit in the middle — softer, cheaper, slightly porous, best kept as personal items. Jelly, rubber, vinyl and PVC are porous, which changes how you should use them rather than ruling them out. The full explanation, including how to clean each one and what warning signs to look for, is in the body-safe guide.

Lubricant: the three bases

Water-based

The closest feel to natural lubrication, and the most flexible choice. Condom-compatible, safe with every toy material including silicone, non-staining, and easy to rinse off. Its one drawback is that it dries as the water evaporates — the fix is a splash of water rather than more lube, which reactivates what’s already there.

Silicone-based

Doesn’t contain water, so it doesn’t dry out. It stays slippery in the shower or bath, doesn’t absorb into skin, and a very small amount goes a long way — which offsets the higher price. Safe with latex condoms. It needs soap and water to wash off properly.

The catch worth knowing: silicone lubricant can degrade some silicone toys, leaving the surface tacky or pitted. If you’re using a silicone toy, use a water-based lube, or patch-test on the base of the toy first.

Oil-based

Long-lasting and good for external massage, but oil damages latex. Never use an oil-based product with latex condoms or latex toys — it degrades the material and the condom stops being reliable protection. Oil is also harder to rinse away, which some people find leaves them prone to irritation.

Ingredients people ask about

  • Glycerin — a sweet-tasting humectant that gives many water-based lubes their slip. It’s in a lot of the best-known formulas. Some women find glycerin contributes to yeast infections; if that’s you, glycerin-free is worth seeking out and is clearly marked on most modern lubes.
  • Parabens — preservatives used across cosmetics as well as lubricants. The research is genuinely unsettled rather than damning. If you’d rather avoid them, paraben-free formulas are widely available and we’d rather point you at one than argue about it.
  • Propylene glycol — a common lubricating and stabilising ingredient. Well tolerated by most people; a minority find it drying or irritating.
  • Flavourings and warming agents — usually sugars or capsaicin-type compounds. Fine for a lot of people, but they’re the most common cause of “this stung” feedback, and sugars near the vagina carry the same yeast caveat as glycerin.

Our own view: for most people, most of the time, a plain glycerin-free water-based lube is the one that causes the fewest problems. Everything else is a preference or a specific use case.

Lingerie fabrics

First, the thing that confuses everyone: satin is a weave, not a fibre

Satin describes how a fabric is woven, not what it’s made of. In a satin weave the yarn passes over several threads before going under one, which puts most of the fibre on the surface — that’s what produces the lustrous face and the matte back. Silk satin and polyester satin are both genuinely satin. They just feel, breathe and cost completely differently.

So “satin” on a label tells you the finish and nothing about the fibre. Check the composition separately. The same applies to jersey (a knit), lace (a construction) and mesh — all describe structure, not material.

The fibres themselves

  • Silk — high moisture absorption and a fibre structure that lets air move through it, so it’s warm in heavier weights and genuinely cool in light ones. It’s the reference point everything else is measured against, and priced accordingly.
  • Cotton — soft, light, hygienic, breathable. The reason it persists in gussets even on pieces that are otherwise synthetic.
  • Nylon — light, fine, strong, takes dye beautifully and can be woven sheer enough to be near-invisible under clothing. That property is exactly why it took over lingerie from the 1970s onward.
  • Elastane / Lycra / spandex — three names for the same thing. It contributes the stretch and recovery in almost every modern piece, usually as a small percentage blended with nylon or polyester. It is also the component that heat destroys.
  • Lace — a construction rather than a fibre. Chantilly is the fine, delicate French style most associated with luxury lingerie; heavier guipure and corded laces hold their own shape.

Boning and structure

Anything that shapes rather than merely covers — corsets, basques, structured bodysuits — relies on boning: narrow rigid strips set into channels. Historically that meant whalebone, chosen because it was springy, could be shaped with heat and split cleanly into narrow strips. Modern pieces use spiral steel or plastic to do the same job. Spiral steel flexes with the body and lasts; plastic is lighter and cheaper and will eventually take a set. If a structured piece is meant for regular wear rather than an occasion, the boning type is worth checking.

What our own catalogue is made of

We hold a stated fabric on 1,416 of our 1,748 lingerie pieces. What that data actually shows:

  • Nylon (946 pieces) — the backbone of modern lingerie. Strong, fine, holds dye brilliantly, and recovers its shape. Almost always blended with a stretch fibre.
  • Polyester (290) — durable and colour-fast, common in satin finishes and structured pieces. Less breathable than cotton.
  • Cotton (50) — breathable and skin-friendly, most often in gussets and everyday pieces rather than statement sets.
  • Polyurethane / PU (25) and Supplex (15) — the wet-look and performance finishes.
  • Adhesive (37) and silicone (6) — the backless and strapless designs that stick rather than fasten.

Care, briefly: hand-wash in cool water with a mild detergent and air dry. Heat is what kills lingerie — a tumble dryer destroys elastane, and elastane is what makes it fit. Fasten hooks before washing so they don’t catch lace. If a piece is adhesive-backed, keep the adhesive clean and dry and never iron it.

On latex allergy: if you react to latex, check both the garment and any toy you use with it. Latex turns up in elastic, in some adhesives, and blended into materials that aren’t otherwise described as latex.

What we can and can’t tell you

Where a supplier states a material, we publish it. Where they don’t, we leave it blank rather than guess — a missing material isn’t a claim that something passed, it’s an admission that we don’t know. If a product’s composition matters to you and the page is silent, ask us and we’ll find out.

Where to go next

This article is general educational information, not medical advice. Everyone's body is different — if you have pain, a health condition, or specific concerns, please talk to a qualified healthcare provider.

Toy materials

Silicone — Silicone is a smooth, flexible polymer (a polysiloxane). It’s non-porous, so it doesn’t absorb fluids and wipes clean easily, and it warms to body temperature. Wash with mild soap and water or a toy cleaner. Pair with a water-based lube — silicone lube can affect silicone over time.

Abs Plastic — ABS is a rigid, lightweight, non-porous plastic used for firm surfaces, handles and bullet casings. It doesn’t absorb fluids and works with any lube. Wipe with mild soap and water or a toy cleaner.

Thermoplastic Elastomer (tpe) — TPE is a soft, stretchy, skin-like blend prized for a lifelike feel. It’s more porous than silicone, so thorough cleaning matters and many people use a condom when sharing. Clean well before and after use and dry fully. Use a water-based lube.

Thermoplastic Rubber (tpr) — TPR is a soft, flexible, skin-like blend valued for a realistic feel. It’s more porous than silicone, so clean it thoroughly and consider a condom when sharing. Clean well before and after, dry fully, and use a water-based lube.

Pvc — PVC (vinyl) is a firm, glossy, non-porous plastic used for a shiny finish. It can carry a scent when new, which airs out. Wipe clean; store flat and separate from other materials, which can mark it.

Vinyl — Vinyl (PVC) is a firm, glossy, non-porous material used for a shiny look. Wipe clean; store flat and separately.

Glass — Body-safe toys use tempered borosilicate glass — a smooth, non-porous, sturdy material compatible with any lube and lovely for temperature play. Inspect for chips before use and wash with soap and water. Warm or cool it gently — never boiling or in a dishwasher unless the maker says so.

Stainless Steel — Stainless steel is a smooth, weighty, non-porous metal compatible with any lube and responsive to temperature. Wash with soap and water. Some metal alloys and findings can contain nickel; if you have a nickel allergy, check the product details.

Metal — A smooth, weighty, non-porous metal, responsive to temperature and compatible with any lube. Wash with soap and water. Some metal alloys and findings can contain nickel; if you have a nickel allergy, check the product details.

Latex — Latex is a stretchy natural rubber with a distinctive shine and feel. Wipe clean and store away from light, heat and oils. Latex is a common allergen — if you have a latex allergy, avoid latex items. Latex is also not compatible with oil-based products.

Rubber — Rubber is a soft, stretchy material with a firm grip and flexible feel. Wipe clean and dry fully. If a product contains natural rubber latex and you have a latex allergy, avoid it — check the product details.

Genuine Leather — Genuine leather is a firm, supple material used in bondage gear and apparel, which softens with use. Wipe with a damp cloth, condition occasionally, and keep dry.

Faux Leather — Faux leather (a polyurethane material) is a firm, supple vegan alternative to leather. Wipe with a damp cloth and keep dry.

Pu Leather — PU leather is a polyurethane-coated vegan alternative to leather — supple and easy to wipe clean. Wipe with a damp cloth and keep dry.

Neoprene — Neoprene is a soft, cushioned, water-resistant synthetic rubber used for comfortable cuffs and straps. Wipe clean and air-dry.

Polyurethane (pu) — Polyurethane is a versatile polymer used as a coating, cushioning foam, or a non-porous surface. Wipe clean per the maker’s guidance.

Nitrile — Nitrile is a synthetic rubber often chosen where a non-latex alternative is wanted. Wipe clean and dry.

Ceramic — Glazed ceramic is a smooth, firm, non-porous material that holds temperature well. Inspect for chips and wash with soap and water.

Polycarbonate — Polycarbonate is a tough, clear, non-porous plastic used for firm, durable parts. Wipe clean with mild soap and water.

Lingerie fabrics

Spandex — Spandex (also called elastane or Lycra) is a synthetic fibre known for exceptional stretch and recovery, usually blended with other fibres for a comfortable, flexible fit. Hand-wash or gentle cycle; avoid high heat, which shortens the life of the stretch.

Elastane — Elastane (also called spandex or Lycra) is a stretchy synthetic fibre blended in for a flexible, comfortable fit. Hand-wash or gentle cycle; avoid high heat.

Lycra — Lycra is a brand of elastane — a stretchy synthetic fibre blended in for flexibility and recovery. Hand-wash or gentle cycle; avoid high heat.

Nylon — Nylon (a polyamide) is a strong, smooth, quick-drying synthetic fibre common in hosiery and lingerie for its silky feel and durability. Hand-wash or gentle cycle; lay flat or line dry.

Polyaminde — Polyamide (better known as nylon) is a strong, smooth, quick-drying synthetic fibre with a silky feel. Hand-wash or gentle cycle; lay flat or line dry.

Polyester — Polyester is a durable, wrinkle- and stretch-resistant synthetic fibre, often blended for shape retention and easy care. Machine or hand wash gentle; low heat.

Cotton — Cotton is a soft, breathable natural fibre, often used for gussets and everyday-comfort pieces. Machine or hand wash.

Silk — Silk is a smooth, lightweight, luxurious natural fibre with a signature sheen and soft drape. Hand-wash cool or dry-clean; avoid wringing and direct heat.

Satin — Satin is a weave (from polyester, nylon or silk) with a glossy face and soft back — smooth against the skin with an elegant sheen. Hand-wash gentle; low or no heat.

Lace — Lace is a delicate, openwork fabric — decorative and light, made in cotton, nylon or blends. Hand-wash gentle in a mesh bag and lay flat to dry.

Microfiber — Microfibre is an ultra-fine synthetic knit — smooth, soft, breathable and stretchy, common in comfortable everyday pieces. Machine or hand wash gentle.

Rayon — Rayon (viscose) is a soft, breathable, drapey fibre made from processed plant cellulose, with a silk-like feel. Hand-wash cool or dry-clean; it’s weaker when wet, so handle gently.

Viscose — Viscose (rayon) is a soft, breathable, silk-like fibre made from plant cellulose. Hand-wash cool or dry-clean; handle gently when wet.

Velvet — Velvet is a soft, dense pile fabric with a plush hand and subtle sheen. Hand-wash gentle or dry-clean; avoid crushing the pile.

Lube & cosmetic ingredients

Plain-language descriptions of ingredients you’ll see on our lube, oil and cosmetic products — what each one is and what it does.

Aloe vera — a plant-derived ingredient added for a soothing, conditioning skin feel.

Benzyl alcohol — a preservative and solvent, also a naturally occurring fragrance component; a sensitiser for a few people.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride — a light, coconut- or palm-derived emollient that gives a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

Carbomer — a thickener that gives water-based gels their smooth, cushioned texture.

Carrageenan — a seaweed-derived thickener used to give a smooth, gel-like texture.

Cetyl alcohol — a fatty alcohol (not drying like ethanol) used to thicken and soften creams and lotions.

Citric acid — used in tiny amounts to adjust and stabilise a formula’s pH.

Cyclopentasiloxane — a light, fast-spreading silicone that leaves a silky, non-greasy finish. read the guide →

Dimethicone — a silicone fluid that gives a silky, long-lasting glide and a smooth skin feel. read the guide →

EDTA — used in tiny amounts to bind stray minerals so preservatives and the formula stay stable.

Glycerin — a humectant that attracts and holds moisture, giving lubes their smooth, cushioned feel; also a common food and cosmetic ingredient. Some people prefer to avoid added glycerin — check the list if that’s you. read the guide →

Hydroxyethylcellulose — a plant-cellulose-derived thickener that gives water-based lubes their gel-like body.

Methylparaben — a preservative from the paraben family used to prevent microbial growth. Paraben use is debated; regulators currently permit it within limits, and some people choose to avoid parabens — check the list. read the guide →

Phenoxyethanol — a widely used preservative, often chosen as a paraben alternative. read the guide →

Polysorbate 20 — an emulsifier that helps oils, fragrance and water blend smoothly.

Potassium sorbate — a widely used, gentle preservative that protects a formula from spoilage.

Propanediol — a plant-derived humectant and solvent, often used as a gentler alternative to propylene glycol. read the guide →

Propylene glycol — a water-soluble humectant and solvent that keeps a formula smooth and stable; widely used in foods and cosmetics. A small number of people are sensitive to it. read the guide →

Sodium benzoate — a common, mild preservative that keeps a product fresh and free of microbial growth.

Sodium chloride — common salt, used to adjust a formula’s thickness.

Sucralose — a no-calorie sweetener sometimes added to flavoured products for taste. read the guide →

Tocopheryl acetate — a form of vitamin E, added as an antioxidant that helps protect a formula and condition the skin.

Xanthan gum — a natural thickener (from fermented sugars) that gives water-based products their body.

General educational information about materials, not medical or safety advice — always read the product label and, if you have a specific allergy, check the product details. Material information here is compiled and written in-house, informed by open references including Wikipedia (CC BY-SA) and PubChem.

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